The Land Where Lemons Grow

October 1, 2014
Here is probably more than you wanted to know about lemons and oranges and other citrus, but the material is delivered charmingly, with no little esprit and educational content. Attlee takes readers on a virtual tour of Italy's terroir in terms of citrus fruit, landing in almost every region to investigate the peculiarities of farming and customs. Some of what we learn is that the best blood oranges, lauded for their antioxidant properties as well as their contributions to the delicacy candied Taroco peel, thrive in the shadow of Mount Etna; that in Sicily, Mafiosi monopolize citrus production (and occasionally disguise heroin manufacturing in mandarin groves); that perfumers in Grasse, France, look to Calabria for bergamot, an essential oil; and that Lubavitcher Jews descend on the Riviera dei Cideri to gather the unique Diamante citron, esrog, used during the holiday of Sukkoth. A handful of old and new recipes plus maps enliven the straightforward text.(Reprinted with permission of Booklist, copyright 2014, American Library Association.)